Brassy results leaving you blue? Denis De Souza shows you how to create this lustrous, cool blonde color without a hint of brassiness. Our NEW LumiShine Blue Ash Series, are an arsenal of ultra-cool permanent crème colors that provide ultimate control over undesirable orangey-red and orangey-yellow undertones.
Lumi-Shine Permanent Creme Color
FORMULA 1:
Joico Crème Lightener with 20 Volume LumiShine Developer (lightest shade)
FORMULA 2:
LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 9BA with 30 Volume LumiShine Developer
(transition shade)
FORMULA 3:
Equal parts LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 9BA and 7BA with 20 Volume LumiShine Developer to create a Level 8 (lowlight)
GLOSS FORMULA:
Equal parts LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color 8NA and Clear with 5 Volume LumiShine Developer
Technique
STEP 1:
Take an off-center part (or your client’s favorite part location) to ensure this area is softened with highlights. Divide the hair into three sections: one on each side of the part (from the ears forward) and one in the back. Separate the fringe at the very front and center.
STEP 2:
Divide the back section in half with a horizontal part, then pin the remainder out of the way. Divide the lower section in half vertically, then pin the other half out of the way. Take the top half of the back section down and divide in half horizontally. Pin the top half out of the way, then divide the lower half into three vertical sections or columns.
STEP 3:
Alternate between weaving and slicing techniques with Formulas 1, 2 and 3, leaving a thin veil of natural hair out between sections.
STEP 4:
Work your way up to the occipital bone, then repeat the process on the next column working from nape upward.
STEP 5:
Isolate a section between the foiled sections to create a bricklay effect. Continue taking fine weave sections, alternating the three color formulas until all three columns are complete.
STEP 6:
View of the completed back area.
TIP: Keep the baby lights ultra-fine to create a completely seamless multidimensional look.
STEP 7: FRONT AND SIDES
Apply Formula 1 to a small section of hair that frames the face. Keep sections diagonal around the face and horizontal above the ear; alternate the three formulas (from lightest to darkest), keeping the lightest formula closest to the face.
STEP 8:
Repeat process on opposite side.
STEP 9:
To maintain brightness at the top, apply Formula 1 to the very front fringe piece and then continue weaving Formula 1 back-to-back.
Process color for 35 minutes at room temperature. Rinse hair thoroughly, then shampoo with K-PAK® Color Therapy.
STEP 10:
Apply Gloss Formula and process for 20 minutes at room temperature.
Shampoo with K-PAK® Color Therapy, rinse. Apply K-PAK® Color Therapy Luster Lock instant shine and repair treatment, leave in for up to 5 minutes, then rinse and style hair as desired.
