Joico Global Artistic Team Member, Mark Mileti has advice for redheads: Wear bold, ginger hair color that enters the room with you, not before you. How? This Ribbon Lights Technique is a combo of LumiShine’s Natural Red Gold Series infused with subtle highlights that add incredible dimension to fiery hair. Delivering the shine and lasting through 30 full shampoos, this LumiShine creation is a stunning sunset on the hair color horizon.
LumiShine Permanent Creme Color
FORMULA 1: Equal parts LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 7NRG with LumiShine 10 Volume Developer
FORMULA 2: Equal parts LumiShine Permanent Crème Color 8NRG with LumiShine 20 Volume Developer
FORMULA 3: Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener with LumiShine 5 (1.5%) Volume Developer
FORMULA 4: 1 oz LumiShine Demi-Liquid 8NC + 1 oz LumiShine Demi-Liquid 10NC + 2 oz LumiShine 5 Volume Developer
Technique
STEP 1: SECTIONING
Part hair down the middle to the nape. Working on each side, apply Formula 1 in horizontal-diagonal 1/8-inch sections.
STEP 2 BASE APPLICATION:
Apply Formula 1 from base to about 2 inches out, covering the natural regrowth. TIP: When working with reds or warm tones, lower your volume or working level to avoid creating “hot roots.” Continue taking diagonal-horizontal partings with Formula 1 throughout the rest of the head. The diagonal sectioning will create a more natural looking end result.
STEP 3 MID-LENGTH AND ENDS APPLICATION:
Working upward from the nape, apply Formula 2 to the mid-lengths and ends TIP: When working with reds, keep color rich and deep at the roots, and lighter and fiery on the ends.
STEP 4 PROCESSING:
Process for 35 minutes. Shampoo and condition with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner. Dry the hair with a paddle brush for a smooth finish, then proceed to the next step.
STEP 5 RIBBON LIGHTS:
Section the hair over the left/right eye. Working off a deep horizontal parting will create soft streams of color from the scalp and bursts of brightness at the ends. Working off the deep part, take a slender diagonal parting and clip it apart. Start your application on a diagonal-horizontal weave parting and apply Formula 3. Hold the brush at an angle to create a softer line at the scalp about an inch away. Saturate the mid-lengths and ends to create more brightness toward the ends, forcing an ombre.
STEP 6:
Continue creating ribbon lights, taking 5-7 back-to-back highlights. Note that the number of ribbon lights will depend on client’s hair density. Working behind the ear, leave out about an inch of hair and continue with another set of ribbon lights. Angle these toward the face to add tons of brightness where it’s most flattering.
STEP 7:
On the other side, take a 1-inch section of hair and move it over to the opposite side. Then, continue taking horizontal weave partings with Formula 3. Take out a triangle section (about 3 inches wide) and clip it apart. Do another set of ribbon lights, with the foils angled toward the face. Keep in mind that this is not supposed to be symmetric to the opposite side; this will allow for different looks depending on where the client parts her hair.
STEP 8:
In the area behind the ear, add another set of ribbon lights using Formula 3. Work on a strong diagonal angle toward the nape, creating bursts of color that shoot out from within the hair. Working off a diagonal-vertical parting below the crown (just above the occipital bone), add 5-7 ribbon lights with Formula 3 feathered about an inch away from the scalp area.
STEP 9 COMPLETED RIBBON LIGHTS APPLICATION:
Process for 10-15 minutes or until hair lifts to a yellow-orange (Level 8) color. Shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo. Towel-dry with two towels, gently squeezing moisture out of hair to prevent roughing up the cuticle. Proceed to the glossing step.
